How to spend four days in Lisbon ~via Courtney Smith Kramer

Courtney and her husband Bryan are dear friends, colleagues, and in many ways inspirational to me and many others. I visited Lisbon many years ago and have wanted to go back for many years. I hope to visit them there, and benefit from Courtney's suggestions for seeing the city and surrounding area. /Ted

Many of you know that my husband Bryan, our 12-year-old rescue plus-sized model fur baby Jessie, and I relocated to Lisbon Portugal 5 months ago from Silicon Valley/San Jose CA. We are Lisbanewbies! Every day has been a new experience, new observation, sometimes a new challenge, and definitely new learning. You need curiosity and patience to live here, of which I have one. Luckily, the Portuguese people are lovely and helpful, and will always correct us when we mispronounce a word or need to open up our translation app to have a conversation. We will get it; just not today.

Lots of family and friends are also starting to schedule visits to this beautiful city and have the same question when they announce they will be here for 3-4 days: “What should we do?” So, I’ve compiled what I’ve told them and thought I’d share it with you in hopes it helps you plan your few days in Lisbon.

There is so much to see and do here, it just depends on your interests. Museums? Lisbon has over 50 in the city proper ranging from the traditional (science and history) to the not-so-traditional (love coaches? Like horse and buggy coaches? There’s a museum for that. Interested in pharmacy? There’s a museum for that. Want to stand a nose length away from a Mary Cassatt? You can do that too) Lisbon has amazing world-class beaches within a 30-minute drive from the city. The food here is absolutely delicious and diverse. And the viewpoints and vistas are stunning. We have barely scratched the surface in 5 months. But if you’re here for just a few days, this will give you a taste of what Lisbon is like (and will likely leave you wanting more.)

Arrival/Day one

*Nuno and his mother, owners of Alfama63 our favorite Tasca*

Settle in and wander the streets in Chiado and Barrio Alto. So many cute little shops and restaurants (including Manteirgari, a pastry shop that sells what many will say pasteis – pronounced PASH-TIE – that rival the ones made in Belem), it’s the shopping district and Barrio Alto is where all the kids hang out in bars and walk the streets until morning. I’d suggest a TukTuk tour, they’re usually about ~2 hours and you will get a good orientation of the city and see all the high point sites (there are a lot to choose from on Trip Advisor from Viator.) Then plan for dinner in Alfama, which is one of the oldest neighborhoods in the site surrounding the base of the castle. Old people alert – the Portuguese never eat dinner here before 8:00pm, and more likely closer to 9/9:30pm. Reservations are a thing, so download the app “The Fork” before you come and you’ll be all set. Also, download “Bolt”, it’s like Uber but a little less expensive, but you’ll be fine with either because neither is expensive here.

Day two

Morning: Uber to Belem. See the tower (don’t need to go in it unless you’re so moved to go in, there’s usually a line and I hear not worth it but we haven’t done it 😊) Continue to Pastel de Belem (this is the original pasteis bakery, it will be busy but OMG worth it). Continue to the Monastery and Archeological Museum – choose to go inside or not, we haven’t been to the museum but the building looks stunning and the monastery is cool to see. Then walk along the river and choose if you want to see the MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology) it’s right on the water close to the Avril 25 (aka Golden Gate Bridge – same architect and color as the one in my old ‘hood). Then continue to LX Factory for a late lunch or snack – don’t eat too much because…

Afternoon into evening: Uber from LX Factory to Time Out Market. Venture over to Pink Street (a few blocks) and have a drink. Then head to the Cais de Sodré train station (a few blocks) to catch a train to Cascais (30 minutes ride and they run every 20 minutes, it’s like 3 euros each RT). Then wander the streets there, gaze at the ocean and watch the sun set. Decide to stay there for dinner or head back to Lisbon for a delicious rooftop restaurant dinner (there are many here!).

Day three

Quinta de Regaleiria steps down into the grotto

Quinta de Regaleiria pool

Go to the Rossio train station and catch a train to Sintra (40 min ride, like 6 euros each RT. I think they run every hour but you should check). Once you’re there, you might want to hire a Tuk Tuk or tour guide to take you up to the Pink Palace (Palace de Pena) or do a combo tour of the Pena and Castelo dos Mouros (Moorish Castle). They are both on hilltops and it’s too far to walk from the train station. After those, take a Tuk Tuk or bus into the town of Sintra, relax, grab a bite, it’s a cute town that looks like something out of Disneyland. One of the things I definitely would recommend you see is the Quinta de Regaleiria, the grounds are stunning! It will be a lot and a full day to fit in all three castles and the town and you should buy tickets ahead of time since the Pena Palace has timed entry. Here’s the Trip Advisor page to decide how to structure that day 😊 Trains come back to Lisbon about every 20 minutes, pay attention to the stations as Rossio is closest to you (Oriente is the farthest).

Day four

*One of the many incredible murals around Lisbon that capture the creative spirit of the city.*

Whether this is your departure day or your last day, I recommend saving it for a slower pace to discover. There are really cool museums (the Gulbenkian is awesome, or the Tile Museum in Beato. If you’re craving some nature you could take an Uber to Setubal (pronounced “Set-too-ball”) which is across the April 25 bridge on the Pacific side. There are some amazing beaches and nature preserves over there.

OR, Lisbon is for wandering. Stop at one of the kiosks and have a galau (cappuccino but cheaper) and a toastee. Eat a Francesina or Bifana sandwich. Go to one of the city lookouts and just people watch. Take a trolley (#28 does a loop) and talk to strangers. It’s that kind of a city, one to discover!!

We are still discovering the hidden gems and being tourists in our own town. The Portuguese are so friendly, you’re safe walking just about anywhere, the Metro and wine are cheap and the food, delicious. Boa sorte!

Originally posted at courtneysmithkramer.com